Anyone who has spent time around wine is familiar with those magical digits that go with many wine reviews. These crucial numbers can make or break the success of a bottle of wine (not really, but it sounds dramatic). I am talking about wine scores. The measurement, usually on a 100 point scale, provides a standardized and accurate measure of a wine's taste, quality, value, and its overall worth. This measurement is so objective that two experts can easily use this metric and come to a similar rating on any kind of wine. Just kidding, almost everything I just said is wrong. Although commonly referred to as the 100 point scale, the popular Wine Advocate scores are actually based on a 50 point scale (50-100), and also in part, reflects the subjective taste of the critic. It is possible, and happens frequently, where two well trained wine experts come to a different score on the same bottle of wine. In addition, this scale, made popular by wine rockstar Robert Parker in the late 1970's and early 80's, is not meant to be the definitive judge of a wine's overall worth and drinkability (unless there is an objective fault). So what goes into a wine score, and how much weight should this number be given? More importantly, should the average wine drinker care about these scores at all? The answer is yes. But also no. You didn't think you were going to get a concise answer from me, did you? Okay, let's explore these questions a bit further, so, hold your nose and dive into the world of wine ratings!
Wine ratings can be a very useful tool. If nothing else, a favorable rating can give you an idea of the quality of the wine production for that vintage and how it stacks up against other wines of the same type. Ratings can also give you an idea of any flaws in the wine. A wine with a very low score could have some problems like high acidity or funky smell. While many of the most popular wine publications such as the Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator, and Wine Enthusiast use the 100 point scale (technically 50 point scale), it is by no means the only ratings system. There is also a 20 point scale that is used by Vinum Vitae in their Essential Wine Tasting Guide, as well as famous wine critics such as Jancis Robinson. There are also 5 point and 3 point scales. I briefly toyed with a 5 point scale myself but found it a bit restrictive. The point is that there are many ratings systems out there. In America, we tend to be most familiar with the 100 point system. I have heard repeatedly that this system resonates with Americans because it is how we are graded in school. That makes sense, but I really hate to subject wine to the kind of grades I had in school. Anyway, the wine advocate says that they use their 100 point scale because it allows for more flexibility and less chance of rating inflation. Let's take a look at their scale.
96-100 These wine get an A+ from an Ivy school. They are the best of the best and worth all the money, and I do mean ALL the money. One sip from a wine in this category will make you immortal.
90-95 These wines get a solid A. They are outstanding and worthy of our praise and adoration
80-89 These wines get a B. The low end of this range is considered barely above average but with no noticeable flaws. The high end is considered a very good wine.
70-79 These wines get a C. They pass as wine. That's basically it, they are wine
60-69 These wines get a D. While they are technically wine, they have problems. These problems could be high acidity or tannins or they just really smell gross. Like, really gross.
50-59 These wines get a F and should be ashamed of themselves.
At first glance, this scale makes sense. I may have exaggerated they way they characterize each range but you get the general idea. For precise wording, be sure to check out the Wine Advocate. When possible the ratings are determined by blind, peer-group tastings where the participants are knowledgeable about wine in general, but more importantly, the specific region where the wine is made. This all sounds great, so there really isn't anything else to say. Everyone should just uses this system and we can all just go about our lives and everything is fine. Well, not necessarily. Recently, there has been a lot complaining about this rating system, and wine ratings in general. Complaints include grade inflation and conflict of interest, large numbers of unrated wine, publications not including wine with a grade lower than 80 points, most wines reviewed receive a grade between 87-89 point, regions that taste wildly different receive the same score, and reviewers have their own personal tastes that influence their rating. The most concerning thing is that these ratings are very influential, and some cases make or break wineries. That is a big problem.
I know it sounds like I dislike the Parker rating system, but that is not necessarily the case. Ideally, this system makes a lot of sense, and Robert Parker definitely knows wine and the wine industry. The problem is how the ratings are implemented and how consumers choose to use this information. It is not surprising that consumers would rather look at a number to help them quickly make decisions on which wine to buy. I could suggest that instead of using the score, a wine buyer read a write up on the bottle or the winery, but there are problems with this approach as well. I recently read a review that described a wine as "Quintessentially Bearwallow." Seriously. What does that even mean? Bearwallow is not a wine descriptor, but unless you know that Bearwallow is a vineyard in California, it sounds like the wine tastes like a bear rolling in something. The point is that just reading the review is not always helpful, and often times, the wine you are interested in has not been reviewed by a critic. Well, poop, it sounds like us consumers are just screwed. No, we definitely aren't! The good news is that many places, including grocery stores and big box stores like Costco have wine guys and gals that are excited to help you. These are the people that decide what wine the store sells so they are a great resource. Can't find the wine person in your store? Okay, in that case you can always try a crowdsourced wine review website like Vivino or an app like Delectable. If none of these options seem better than using a rating, you are not alone. The lure of the 90 point wine is undeniable.
So after all this, what have we learned? The 100 point system is not without its flaws, but it does give us an idea of how a wine stacks up against other wines of its type or region, and its production quality (in one critic or peer group's opinion). Some experts feel like we should be using a different rating system altogether. Most agree that having a standardized rating system would ideal. I am afraid I don't
have a solution. Many other more talented wine experts are still debating the virtues and vices of different systems, and I am confident that they will figure something out. In the meantime, I tend to find critics that my taste aligns with and see what they are recommending. For example, Allen Meadows the Burghound is my favorite. Above all else, I have found that just trying a lot of different kinds of wine regardless of its rating is the best solution. Do not be afraid to try a wine that does not have a review or a score. In doing this, you begin to get a sense of what you like and what you don't like and that is more valuable than any score.
I would love to hear from you! What do you think about wine ratings and scores? What system do you use? Leave a comment below.
